Chefchaouen sits in the Rif Mountains where goats outnumber people in the villages above. The food reflects this: rustic, mountain, and — thanks to a century of Spanish colonial history in nearby Tangier and Ceuta — more Mediterranean than most Moroccan cities.
Local goat cheese
The “jben” from surrounding villages is the Chaouen specialty — fresh, soft, slightly tangy, often served with honey or olive oil. Stalls near Bab el-Ain sell it wrapped in palm leaves for 15–30 MAD. Eat within 24h.
Tagines with mountain vegetables
Chaouen tagines skew vegetarian-friendly and feature prune, fig, or apricot variations along with chicken-lemon-olive. Expect 40–80 MAD at Plaza Uta el-Hammam restaurants — yes, there’s a view markup of about 20%%.
Bissara — the local breakfast
Thick fava bean puree with olive oil, cumin, and hot bread. 5–12 MAD at small cafes on the edges of the Medina. This is how locals start cold mountain mornings.
Spanish-leaning tapas and seafood
You’ll find tortilla española on some menus, and fish/shrimp dishes thanks to proximity to the Mediterranean. Restaurant Sofia and Cafe Clock Chefchaouen have creative takes. 60–120 MAD for a full meal.
Couscous on Friday
Friday is couscous day across Morocco. In Chaouen, some riads host communal Friday lunches — ask your hostel to reserve a seat. 80–150 MAD for a proper seven-vegetable couscous.
Budget hacks
- Eat breakfast and lunch near Bab Souk (not Plaza Uta el-Hammam) — same dishes, 30–40%% cheaper.
- Buy cheese, olives, bread, and fruit from the souk and picnic at the Spanish Mosque viewpoint.
- Tea is everywhere and cheap — 5–10 MAD a pot.
Drinks
Alcohol is officially not available in most of the Medina. Some guesthouses have discreet wine lists and the bigger hotels outside the Medina serve beer. Stick to mint tea or fresh juice inside the blue walls.