Fes is the intellectual and culinary capital of Morocco. This is the city where pastilla was invented, where imperial-era recipes survive in family homes, and where the Medina hides some of the best food in the country.
Pastilla
Morocco’s most famous dish: layered warqa pastry, shredded pigeon (or chicken), almonds, eggs, cinnamon, powdered sugar on top. Sweet-savory and unforgettable. Try at Dar Hatim or Ruined Garden for serious versions, 80–180 MAD.
Lamb with prunes and almonds
A wedding-day classic. The lamb is braised until collapsing, prunes are caramelized, toasted almonds scattered on top. Around 70–120 MAD in Medina restaurants.
Fassi bread and offal sandwiches
At R’cif gate and around Bab Boujloud, vendors sell sandwiches of kèfta, liver, brain, or the famous stuffed camel spleen — khli (preserved beef) — pressed into round Fassi bread. 15–30 MAD for a filling meal.
Harira and lentil soup
Harira (tomato-lentil-chickpea soup) is a Ramadan staple but sold year-round. Chaari bissara — fava bean soup with olive oil and cumin — is the traditional Fassi breakfast. 8–15 MAD a bowl.
Sellou (sfouf)
Fes specialty: ground toasted sesame, almonds, flour, honey, and spices, eaten in small bites with tea. Dense energy food that traveled well before protein bars existed. Found in pastry shops.
Fruit stalls and zalouk
Zalouk is a smoky cooked-aubergine salad, usually served as a starter with bread. Street vendors also sell cactus fruit (prickly pear) for 2–5 MAD — the classic Medina snack.
Where to eat in Fes
- Budget (under 50 MAD): R’cif Square sandwich stalls, Bab Boujloud cafes.
- Mid (50–120 MAD): Cafe Clock, Ruined Garden, any small riad restaurant.
- Upscale traditional (200+ MAD): Dar Hatim, Palais Amani — book ahead.
Food tour tip
A half-day Medina food tour (around 400–600 MAD) is one of the best money-for-insight deals in Morocco. A local guide gets you past tourist spots into real bakeries and communal ovens.